YONDER BREAKS

I've been watching this movie that came out a few years ago called We Are Skateboarders, in which the filmmakers go around asking skaters, "What is the soul of skateboarding?" It's a pretty unique movie...part documentary, part skate film, part ridiculous skits. But as I've been going through it, I can't help but ask myself the same question: "What is the  soul  of skateboarding?" I would say the answer to that question is different for everyone. For me personally, I landed on the word  progression . A big part of skateboarding is progression, and the great thing about it is that progression is tangible. If I put enough hours and effort into a trick, eventually I will land it. And the feeling of landing it, the very real and physical evidence of achievement, is amazing. It's kind of like life...to have a good job, marriage, GPA, etc., you must put in work to reap the reward. (Skateboarding just happens to fall on the more fun side of thi...

"Why is it so fun to chase tiny surf?" I asked my friend Mitchel as we paddled out into 2-3 foot sets at  Dockweiler Beach . It's a paradox for sure, but as I sat waist deep in the cool early-June Pacific waters, gazing out to a flat horizon, hoping for some sort of swellular disruption, I couldn't help but feel something like happiness. I've  written before  that every surfer at some point says, "It's just good to be out in the water," and on this day it was more than true. The morning was peaceful and overcast, with a slight drizzle of refreshment that would flare from time to time. It was quiet, as we essentially had the break to ourselves (crowd diminishing: one very good thing about small waves), and though I spent the first twenty minutes of my time in the water reminiscing about the multiple head-high days I had had at that very same spot, I was struck by the bliss and contentment that washed over me like the closeout of nearly every wav...

Psalm 26 Of David. 1  Vindicate me,  Lord ,      for I have led a blameless life; I have trusted in the  Lord      and have not faltered. 2  Test me,  Lord , and try me,      examine my heart and my mind; 3  for I have always been mindful of your unfailing love      and have lived in reliance on your faithfulness. 4  I do not sit with the deceitful,      nor do I associate with hypocrites. 5  I abhor the assembly of evildoers      and refuse to sit with the wicked. 6  I wash my hands in innocence,      and go about your altar,  Lord , 7  proclaiming aloud your praise      and telling of all your wonderful deeds. 8  Lord , I love the house where you live,      the place where your glory dwells. 9  Do not take away my soul along with...

I've written before that I'm a big fan of  Jamie Winship . One thing he often asks in his lectures is, "Who told you that?" As in, when you have an opinion about yourself, where did it come from? For instance, maybe I believe I'm bad at spelling. Who told me that? A teacher way back in 1st grade? My friends who were better than me at spelling? Maybe I'm a good speller, or maybe I  could  be with a little application, but this belief has kept me from realizing it. The same principle applies to more weighty feelings: I'm not a good dad (husband, brother, worker, etc.). Who told me that? My wife, myself, my friends, the world, media? Most importantly,  did God tell me that?  Probably not, because God rarely says things like, "You aren't," but rather, " You are ."   But Moses said, “No,  Lord , don't send me. I have never been a good speaker, and I haven't become one since you began to speak to me. I am a poor speaker,...

"Unite" has always been one of my favorite songs by the O.C. Supertones, partly because it's an awesome song, but also because of its message of sparking unity among Christians. Here is an excerpt: O yeah, I got a beef with the fence-sitters Tares among the wheat, the cop-outs, the quitters Cut from the branch fruitless, no good, Only one use and that's firewood Pay no mind to the generation line Forsake your sect and be color blind The problem's not Hollywood, the problem's not Washington The problem's a weak divided church of schizmed Christians. One of the last things Jesus did for His disciples was pray for them, and a reoccurring phrase was that they would be one. He also prays the same thing for all of the future disciples, our unity ultimately being the thing that lets the world know He was who He said He was. My prayer is not for them alone. I pray also for those who will believe in me through their message,  that all of them m...

It was the kind of night that Southern California dreams are made of. Some friends of mine had miraculously secured a campsite at  Leo Carillo  the same weekend a modest swell was set to come through. On top of that, it was a full moon, so we would be able to paddle out at 10 PM, just as the street parking closed and all the day-trippers would have to make the hour-long trip back home, wishing they could have stayed longer. Yes, all was set for the perfect end to summer...that is, until, about 30 other surfers who must have had the same genius idea we did decided to paddle out. "Since when did  night surfing  become  day  surfing?!" one guy lamented out loud, verbalizing the obvious disappointment we all felt. To make matters worse, about a third of the people on the water were some of the most obnoxious surfers I had ever encountered. I had one guy literally run into me as I was dropping in, and then on the next wave drop in right in front of m...