YONDER BREAKS

I just had an awesome surf session -- pretty big waves, a couple great left-handers with probably the best snaps I've ever done. As I showered off after, it struck me just how good I felt, and I was reminded of how much I love surfing. You might be saying, "Of course you love surfing, Rick, you bought a website and devote hours of your life to writing about it." You're right. But sometimes you forget what you love, don't you? For instance, you love your wife, right? But how often do you take her out on a date or buy her a gift? You love your kids, but how much time did you spend on your phone the last time you took them to the park? Not to sound judgmental, but often times our actions don't back up our decisions. Sometimes we just need a reminder. It was kind of cold today and I didn't really feel like surfing. I couldn't find any friends to come and I have a hurt rib. There were plenty of reasons not to surf, but afterwards, I'm sure gl...

Surfers come in plenty of packages. There are, of course, the typical beach bum surfer and the  bro-dude surfer . But then sometimes you find successful business owners, pastors and a whole host of other non-surfery folks who love to paddle out on a regular basis. I think you find this because a surfer's life is about balance, literally while on the board and figuratively while finding time to surf between family obligations, work meetings and fixing your car. It makes sense that this life in balance can find itself landing in lots of different places with lots of different people. To segue into my little political rant, I think this idea of balance is why I've come to some sad conclusions about this year's race for the presidency. My wife and I missed most of the debates on both sides of the political spectrum (there are only two sides of course) and so we've been catching up the last week or so. What I have found is that I kept gravitating to the candi...