Love and Surfing

I just had an awesome surf session -- pretty big waves, a couple great left-handers with probably the best snaps I've ever done. As I showered off after, it struck me just how good I felt, and I was reminded of how much I love surfing.

You might be saying, "Of course you love surfing, Rick, you bought a website and devote hours of your life to writing about it." You're right. But sometimes you forget what you love, don't you?

For instance, you love your wife, right? But how often do you take her out on a date or buy her a gift? You love your kids, but how much time did you spend on your phone the last time you took them to the park? Not to sound judgmental, but often times our actions don't back up our decisions. Sometimes we just need a reminder.

It was kind of cold today and I didn't really feel like surfing. I couldn't find any friends to come and I have a hurt rib. There were plenty of reasons not to surf, but afterwards, I'm sure glad I did!

Life is the same way -- I don't always feel like loving my wife or my kids. I sometimes don't feel like doing a good job at work or praying. In these situations we must make a choice and then back it up with action. And what is the result? Usually the wayward feelings come back and you are in love again. With your wife, your kids, God and even sometimes surfing.